I wasn’t planning on going to Tokyo. How I wanted to spend my birthday last December was a trip to Kyoto or Nagoya, have a nice kaiseki dinner and indulge in hot sake in the cold weather. The idea was that simple until after a phone call.

I was almost done finalizing the itinerary when my friend called if I could change my schedule so we could meet in Tokyo. Truth be told, I was hesitant. Although I’ve always felt at ease in Tokyo, I’ve been there one too many times. Then, I realized, this might be a blessing in disguise.

I’ve always wanted to visit the Nagano Prefecture. From Tokyo, it takes an hour and 20 minutes by train going north. I thought to myself that it was an opportune time to see the famous Japanese Macaque or Snow Monkey while leisurely enjoying an onsen bath. It was a longshot since it wasn’t snowing yet but I might as well go. Adding to that, onsen baths have been one of my favorite pastimes in Japan after first experiencing the therapeutic tradition in Niseko years back. Eventually, I completely overhauled my plans.

After four days in Tokyo, my first stop was Yudanaka in the Nagano Prefecture. I took a train from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station, then the Nagano Dentetsu Line to Yudanaka. It’s a peaceful onsen town that reminded me that being detached from the busy cities can be quite relaxing. I walked from the train station to my hotel with scenic views of mountains all around. I booked a ryokan or a traditional Japanese inn with tatami mats on the floor for the full experience. After leaving my bags, I headed over to Shibu Onsen appreciating its traditional architecture.

Monkey Park

The next day was my trip to the Jigokudani Monkey Park. A shuttle was provided by the hotel to the foot of the mountain. From there, I trekked to reach the onsen pool where the monkeys would frequent. For first time travelers, it’s best to check the official website of the park for the predicted time when the monkeys will come down from the mountains. Since the monkeys are free, it’s not always guaranteed that they will be at the onsen spot at any given time. I was fortunate to see a Snow Monkey frolicking around and gathering food.

In the afternoon, I finally took a dip at the hotel’s onsen. I braved the weather for a soak in the outdoor onsen. The cold temperature made it bearable to stay in the hot spring water. Hearing the water flow and feeling the warm, mineral-rich water on my skin rejuvenated me.

After Yudanaka, I made a quick stop at Obuse, the smallest town in the Nagano Prefecture famous for its chestnuts. My only goal was to savor the famous Mont Blanc cake made with a layer of chestnut paste on top. Sought after, customers line up at different cafes or bakeries for a piece. I waited for a table so I could properly have my cake and eat it too with tea.

The next day after a night in the city of Nagano, I prepared early for another day trip. Togakushi was one of my highlights. This small village in the mountains is famous for the five shrines situated in different areas. Also, I went there to eat. People know I have an affinity for noodles and one of my most favorite varieties is soba or buckwheat noodles. Coincidentally, Togakushi is famous for being one of the highest producers of quality soba. I took the bus and got off at the Okusha or the upper shrine.

There were a selection of restaurants but the one closest to the Okusha was highly rated. I sat at the bar facing the gate of the shrine. While staring out and waiting for my order, I had a quick pause. It dawned on me how unexpectedly exciting life will always be. I was in a picturesque village that I knew nothing of months prior, I was already there happily travelling, and I was making new memories and experiences. It was simply surreal. When the food arrived, I was quickly drawn back to reality and I remembered how hungry I was.

Apart from the restaurant’s signature soba in duck broth, I ordered tempura and discovered that sometimes salt is all you need in place of sauce to enhance the flavor. I also had dango or soba dumplings coated in sauce. Last was the soba flavored ice cream that was creamy and slightly savory.

With a full tummy, I trekked up to the Okusha, walking through a forest filled with majestic hundred-year-old trees. On the bus back to the city, I got off at the station closest to the Zenkoji Temple for some sightseeing on my last day in Nagano. Walking around Zenkoji Omotesando, I looked around the small shops before walking back to my hotel during my final night in the prefecture.

From having no plans of going to stumbling upon places I never expected to be at, Nagano Prefecture became an accidental favorite destination that I think I’ll go back to.