GRIST OF THE MILL

One of the newest entries to Cebu’s ever-so bustling coffee scene is The Mill Lifestyle Cafe and it’s always a full house for excellent reasons.

Kingston Ralph Cheng at The Mill Lifestyle Cafe. | photograph courtesy of Kingston Ralph Cheng

The most unsettling aspect of this venture is quite possibly its owner — still an undergrad — Kingston Ralph Cheng, who is just 21 years old! In fact, he took a semester off from the prestigious Monash University in Melbourne, Australia, where he is on the last term of his Bachelor of Science in International Business degree, to focus on the opening of his dream cafe. This was a sanctioned leave by the institution, all for the pursuit of learning.

Located at one of the strategic entrances of the newest wing of the Ayala Center Cebu, the 70 – sq.m. coffee house, which opened in August 2023, was born out of an interest in the vibrant Melbourne cafe culture, where the atmosphere is casual and relaxed.

Their varied selection of pastries and breads are likewise delectable, faithfully backed up by traditional clan recipes and nothing-but-forward-looking discerning innovations from across the world. And mind you, these are all baked from scratch, using specialty flour from their very own go-to family-owned mills.

Today, they serve 18 specialty treats, plus a collection of six chilled pastries, supplemented by five distinct loaves of breads. Did I see some sandwiches being crafted by a chef on the counter, before one’s very own eyes?

Kouign Amann (classic, chocolate, baklava, coconut crunch and milk).

Some bestsellers include eye-catching delights like blueberry and bacon-cheddarscones, baklava, coconut, and milk kouign amann and Shibuya honey toast, plus classics such as the baguette, sourdough, ciabatta and pain au chocolat. They likewise offer packed treats like almond and chocolate mango twists, and langues de chat.

Crowd favorites are the Spanish lattes and various iced coffees. Speaking of the it of it all, they have wisely partnered with a local coffee roaster are par excellence.

An highly adaptable and reasonably flexible individual, Kingston comes from a family of four, with the mother behind Kate’s Bakery, while the business-minded father belongs to the ever-growing IT industry. A 10-year-old younger brother completes the foursome.

Start them young Four-year-old Kingston at his mother’s kitchen. | Photographs courtesy of Kingston Ralph Cheng

The matriarch ignited his passionate love for baking, where she started it out as a hobby for friends and neighbors. “She was a hands-on baker and allowed me to play with dough at a very young age. I was delighted to complete assignments such as breaking a never-ending number of eggs growing up,” Kingston shared.

“I found it natural and made me more than interested in the foundations of baking,” he continued.

Splash them on With fellow students during his Bangkok baking course.
The students present their collective creation during a course in The Netherlands.

And thus, the youngster sought out for knowledge. His quest brought him to the UFM Baking School in Bangkok, Thailand, where he learned the foundations, science and technology of baking. He then went to the Bakery Institute in Zaandam in the Netherlands,  followed by a Korean baking school to further hone his skills. He likewise spent some considerable time in a Gourmet Kitchen, where he absorbed the ins-and-outs of chilled pastries.

Melbourne inspiration Kingston Ralph Cheng with Laura Jane during his Gourmet Kitchen immersion in Australia.

Kingston’s big break came while working as a kitchen assistant in Melbourne, where the lady manager caught his eye and asked him to conduct demos. The venue was a cooking school in the morning, and afternoon through the evening, a restaurant. “The best part? I could bring all the gourmet food home!” the student exclaimed.

A Japanese kitchen knife, which the baker-entrepreneur brings everywhere he goes, is his favorite tool. “With a dull knife, I have to exert more effort. So that’s a no-no.” Meanwhile, he cannot live without flour. “It’s the basis of all our creations,” he confidently stated.

Though he loves ice cream, his particular preferred flavor changes from time to time.

His most treasured recipe is his croissant, while it was the most difficult to master roast beef. “It’s a temperature game and temperature is always a challenge,” he explained.

So far, the best compliment he has received which continues to motivate him was “Your croissants are better than the ones in Paris.” It floored him!

During his free periods, Kingston looks forward to a game of basketball and studiously rehearses the violin. “I may be tense and nervous when I play alone, but I always feel relaxed when I’m performing with an orchestra.”

He is an avid overseas traveler, as it encourages and opens his eyes to more possibilities.

Let’s hear more from this young enterprising trailblazer:

Customer segment

“The Mill Lifestyle Cafe attracts a rather upper-crust clientele. Business executives drop by for a simple cup of coffee for brief meetings, while some laid-back señoras take their sweet time partaking of desserts and drinks. On Sundays, the patisserie transforms into a place for family gatherings across different generations.”

Baking style

“I am pretty much experimental. I research and innovate. I tirelessly and relentlessly test, gather honest feedback from family and friends, then test again. Once it gets an overwhelming majority vote, only then does it debut in the menu.”

Ingredient sources

“We gather most essential ingredients locally. Some are imported, such as candied fruits and butter from New Zealand and Belgium.”

Inspirations

“I simply love creating products which make people happy. Elated and fulfilled patrons continue to motivate me.”

Role model

“It’s Roy Chung. He is the baking professor of my Mom and I in Thailand, 20 years apart. She belonged to Batch 21, while I was in Batch 41, the youngest in my class. Once he scrutinizes a dish, he immediately knows what’s wrong with it. He’s that good! He is hard on everyone, yet everyone looks up to him.”

Motto

“It’s continuous learning. I read a lot and try to master what I acquire. Even my parents continue their education to keep up with the times.”

Advice to aspiring entrepreneurs

“When you open a shop, don’t give up. Whatever the problem, the solution is somehow around the corner. Associate with individuals of all ages, they have their own wisdom and experience to share.”