Beyond the flowers of Heidelberg

Perched by the east bank of the Neckar River in Germany – a vital travel route as the district developed – the city of Heidelberg is one most Filipinos may be familiar with, owing to the iconic poem of our national hero Jose Rizal, A Las Flores De Heidelberg.

Rizal attended medical lectures at the University of Heidelberg. This is where he likewise met his professor and mentor Otto Becker, as the Illustrado underwent ophthalmology training, so that he could operate on his mother’s failing eyesight.

He then crossed paths with Reverend Karl Ullmer who invited him to stay at their home. Today, this abode has been converted to a bookstore – aptly prophetic, for this is where the polymath finished his first novel, Noli Me Tangere.

And this is not to mention the street and nearby park where he lived have been named after him, complete with a statue which stands guard through the decades.

A trivia – we learned he was popular even among the Germans because he was an excellent chess player! 

The bustling daily lives at the University of Heidelberg, Germany’s oldest university and a leading research-focused institution, is something to write home about too – undergraduates and postgraduates carrying on with their days, with knapsacks on the backs, either rushing to next class or enjoying a laid-back stress-free afternoon.

But aside from its hard-earned academic reputation, the oft-mentioned gardens, and the ties with our nationalist, Heidelberg carries historical, architectural and even romantic significance.

This port-of-call is best relished through a river cruise, such as that of AmaWaterways, which took us through several medieval cities and modern towns along the Moselle and Rhine – and then some – where we enjoyed leisurely sails through choice picturesque countryside. 

Best of all — we were immediately taken aback once we spotted the Heidelberg Castle, the old guard on top of a hill. We decided to explore the fort’s premises to immerse in the ancient offerings of this complex.

Here are five spots you should not miss.

Elisabethentor: Undying love

A Roman triumphal arch-style gate was our ceremonial entrance to the castle grounds, which holds a poignant love story. History says it was built in 1615 under the orders of Prince Palatine Elector and King Frederick V von der Pfalz, by the French engineer and garden architect Salomon de Caus. He erected the structure overnight – local lore says – as a birthday present for his beloved wife, Elisabeth Stuart. 

Ottheinrichsbau Palace: Architectural forerunner

Built between 1556 to 1566, it gave us a glimpse into the mid-16th century rule of Elector Otto Henry. Although the rest is sadly now in ruins, this stands as a lavish display of architectural prowess. The elector was likewise responsible for the establishment of the Bibliotheca Palatina, the foundation of today’s prestigious and globally renowned Heidelberg University Library, the home of priceless manuscripts and books.

Torturum: Clock tower

The Torturum, a 40-meter-high tower, provided us with a fabulous panorama of the old town and the winding Neckar River below. A strategic stronghold dated 1531 and 1541, we explored its dungeon in the basement and various areas for defense on the upper floors. Unfortunately, the original roof succumbed to a fire in in 1689, but was later rebuilt to what it is today. 

Dicker Turm: Thick walls

The tower is notorious for its walls, which are 23 feet — not inches — thick! Constructed approximately by 1533, the tower used to boast of an expansive dining and banqueting hall added by Elector Friedrich V, which served as his royal retreat. This became a venue for entertainment and alongside theater performances. We witnessed the aftermath of the Palatinate War of Succession in 1693, which left scars and damages along its facade.

Gigantic Barrel: Bottoms up

To cap off our amble, we headed to the much-talked-about wide space which aptly houses the Great Heidelberg Tun, a gigantic keg that symbolizes the region’s rich wine culture. Completed in 1751, this colossal cask boasts a capacity of 220,000 liters! It remains as the largest wooden drum ever filled with wine on the planet. In fact, due to its massive size, the neighboring King’s Hall was the frequent venue of parties due to its proximity to alcohol. Now, the hall is still utilized for private celebrations.

These are our five magical postcards. What’s yours?

 For more information on AmaWaterways’ River Cruises, contact Teresita Henderson at +639209167972 or email teresita@intasdestinations.ph or [email protected].